The unequivocal buzzword in America during the past year has been “change.” The entire country — including, of course, D.C. — is undoubtedly headed into a new era filled with both challenges and precedents. But “change” has long been a recurring theme in the lives of D.C. residents, extending beyond the typical political and economic transformations that denizens of D.C. have seen in the past few decades.
Perhaps playing an even stronger role in the social revolutions are the various city neighborhoods, all of which are rich in social and cultural history. In the past five decades, these areas have modernized themselves with the times while preserving their enduring characters.
Adams Morgan
It’s the colorful and quirky multicultural heartbeat of the city, where sensory-stimulation overload is a near guarantee. Whether digging into El Salvadorian pupusas on one street corner, stumbling across delicious French crêpes next door or catching some live music at an Ethiopian restaurant right across the street, Adams Morgan is the epicenter of international flare and fusion. The main streets are like an around-the-world food fest of flavors, all of which pay tribute to the neighborhood’s identity as an immigrant melting pot of cultures. Within just a few blocks, it is possible to experience the world not only on one’s taste- buds but also through music, people and artwork.
Several decades ago, however, Adams Morgan was hardly a breeding ground for cross-cultural dialogue and experiences. In the 1950s and earlier, the neighborhood, then more commonly called Lanier Heights, was characterized by expensive townhouses and a predominantly white population that lacked the global vibe it is known for today. The beautifully preserved townhouses, similar to those that line the cobblestone streets of Georgetown, still exist today, but the social and ethnic atmosphere has changed dramatically.
Perhaps this can be credited to one of the most important legal cases in this nation’s history: Adams Morgan became one of the first neighborhoods in the country to successfully integrate black and white schools after the 1954 Supreme Court decision Brown v. Board of Education. Though there was some opposition — Jane Freundel Levey, the director of heritage programs at Cultural Tourism D.C., notes that people living in the community were afraid to stay in the area and instead joined in the mass exodus to the suburbs — this step forward set a nationwide example of racial integration that stands strong more than half a century later. In fact, the name Adams Morgan is derived by combining the names of the previously all-white John Quincy Adams Elementary School and the previously all-black Thomas P. Morgan Elementary School.
This name represents the lasting unity among different races and ethnicities in the area, as Adams Morgan has become the melting pot of D.C. Since that landmark case in 1954, the international presence in Adams Morgan has continued to flourish and grow each year with immigrant arrivals from all over the world. In the early 1960s, large numbers of immigrants from predominantly Latin American countries, particularly Guatemala and El Salvador, poured into the neighborhood, followed by steady flows of immigrants from African and Caribbean nations in the 1970s. Today, this neighborhood strives to maintain its legacy as a center of intercultural connection, as well as one of the trendiest areas in the metropolitan area.
Columbia Heights
Like Adams Morgan, the lesser-visited Columbia Heights has been through equally tumultuous periods of demographic shifting and changing identity. During World War II, the city became overcrowded with people who were working in war offices in D.C. There was a moratorium on the construction of new buildings for a time, and by the time it was lifted, many of the residents in Columbia Heights also had moved to the suburbs, while new groups of people moved into the Heights.
In 1949, when racial segregation in the public school system was a grim reality, the originally all-white, under-enrolled Central High School reopened as an all-black school in order to cater to the growing black population of the Columbia Heights community. For several decades, Columbia Heights remained largely a black enclave, rich in cultural pride. When Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated, however, riots caused many local businesses to shut down and the Columbia Heights economy took a downward slide.
“These areas changed radically in terms of who was living there … single people, people with not a lot of money. Then the low point came in 1968 after … King was assassinated,” Levey says. “These neighborhoods were really hurt by the riots, especially Columbia Heights, which was burned out by them.”
Today, the community has been revived by locals, and now features historical landmarks from past decades as well as new eateries and hangout spots. Attractions like Tivoli Theatre, a landmark building of the Columbia Heights district that was shut down for 25 years after economic difficulties during the civil rights movement, has been restored to its old glory and converted into a base for the GALA Hispanic Theatre company. Ben’s Chili Bowl continues to be a local treasure, holding a coveted spot in the hearts of both President Obama and Bill Cosby, two of the restaurant’s better-known customers.
“The area has gone through dramatic changes in the last few decades, from being at its height with ‘black Broadway’ and the center of [black] culture, to totally going down in ruins in terms of drug wars and riots and Metro … construction,” says Nizam Ali, co-owner of Ben’s Chili Bowl. “Now it’s back up to a very prosperous, busy and wealthy area with high condos, high condo prices, residences and shops.”
Originally a silent movie theater and a pool hall, the charming home of Ben’s Chili Bowl was transformed into a funky diner in the late 1950s and has remained a beloved fixture in the city since then, even in the midst of riots and protests that took place just outside the restaurant. Though the country has changed significantly, the tiny eatery remains a blast from the past, with its red linoleum bar, checked floor and the same old chili dogs and burgers that have been Ben’s staple menu items for decades. Popular spots like Ben’s Chili Bowl inspire nostalgia of better times for the neighborhood’s residents.
Dupont Circle
Dupont Circle has also been through important periods of growth and development as one of D.C.’s most cosmopolitan neighborhoods. Many extremely old Victorian buildings remain intact as museums throughout the neighborhood, but the main attraction of Dupont has always been the buzzing sense of culture and community gathering, not to mention the unique intersection of the many foreign embassies that dot the region and the proliferation of charming coffee shops, bookstores and yogurt joints.
Since the early 1970s, Dupont Circle has flourished as one of D.C.’s (and the nation’s) most prominent LGBTQ neighborhoods — a proud and fun community often known as a starting point for demonstrations, celebrations and parades related to gay pride. The neighborhood has much to offer with a plethora of different places to go and things to see, but some of the most beloved traditions and landmarks of Dupont revolve around its identity as a gay neighborhood that has been likened to the Castro of San Francisco or Greenwich Village of New York City.
Levey explained that as more and more D.C. residents flocked to the suburbs after World War II, Dupont Circle had already gained a strong LGBTQ population. “In Washington, the communities that generally get run down tend to get revived first by gay people that have money to [fix it up], and certainly that’s what happened in Dupont Circle,” she says.
Often considered a focal point within Dupont, the bookstore Lambda Rising has provided the gay community of both Dupont and the larger D.C. area with specifically LGBTQ-oriented selections and an overall welcoming atmosphere for communal gathering since 1974. A year after its opening, the bookstore ran the world’s first gay-oriented commercial for television, immediately making Lambda Rising an important voice and player when the gay rights movement took off. These days, the bookstore still offers a wide selection of titles and also frequently arranges speakers and events.
Recently, Dupont Circle has been in the limelight when the MTV reality series “Real World” was being filmed in the neighborhood, with the cast living in and exploring Dupont Circle. And in recent years, Dupont Circle has gained exposure as a new hot spot for nightlife and a shopping district that hosts big-name department stores.
That’s one thing Levey could do without.
“The thing I miss the most [is] the individual entrepreneurs. All these communities lose those when the chains come in. I miss Toast and Strawberries, which was a women’s clothing boutique right off Dupont Circle,” she says. “[There was] the Childe Herold, which was a bar and restaurant on Connecticut Avenue, a bike shop on 20th and P [Streets] which is gone and the Dupont Circle movie theater. … [They’re all] gone now.”
Dupont still remains an important focal point of the city, however, especially when it comes to demonstrations and celebrations. This past Tuesday, the legendary drag Dupont High Heel Race, a Halloween tradition that began in 1985, continued with the same enthusiasm as the first year the event began.
Nevertheless, she says that as neighborhoods continue to grow and expand, there is a loss of unity among some residents. “As neighborhoods who improve economically you lose people who have lived there for decades,” she says. “That’s where we really feel the loss, that’s the sadness, but that’s the nature of cities.”
Ali agrees. “You miss your old friends and the older residents that used to work for [Ben’s Chili Bowl.] They moved out due to rising property taxes, having fixed incomes and not being able to pay the taxes, and were forced to sell. Many of the new residents have been very warm and wonderful people, but you miss those old residents. It’s not a good thing, the way they had to move out.”
As D.C. begins to play a bigger role in the advocacy of social issues, however, Levey has a positive outlook on the city’s future. “Improvements in services available to residents as more money flows into the community — those were always changes for the better that really can have an impact on people who live there,” she says.
These one-of-a-kind neighborhoods make up a rich tapestry of cultural and social diversity, evolving over the past five decades with waves of immigrants and new social movements. The storefronts and fads may be constantly changing, but one thing that will always be alive in local residents is spirit and pride in D.C.’s history and culture.
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